星期一, 十月 31, 2011

Sipadan Mabul Kapalai 岸上篇

Sipadan Mabul Kapalai 5天4夜 潜水之旅


11/4/2011 - 15/4/2011





Sipadan Mabul Kapalai
岸上篇





Sipadan 岛,是我梦想的一个地方,也是我考了潜水执照后最想去潜水的地方。但是潜水好友跟我说过,不要那么快去Sipadan,因为它实在太漂亮了,去了那里,很多岛都不想去潜了。我跟猪妹考了执照5年内去潜了不少地方,累积了经验,东海岸的岛几乎都潜完了,还去过台湾绿岛,印尼巴里潜水。过了5年,终于决定来这个我梦寐以求的潜水天堂潜水了~!



在Semporna的外海有三个岛屿:Sipadan Mabul Kapalai,都是超级无敌漂亮的岛。当中最有名的莫过于Sipadan岛了。据说是世界10大潜水景点,不过听外国到来潜水的朋友说,Sipadan对他们而言,竟然是世界三大岛屿之一,我们身为马来西亚人真是引以为荣啊。



Sipadan岛:
这个岛是一个菌菇形状的岛,从海底到水面有600米高,岛上不能住人,只可以进去潜水,晚上就要出来,一天只限120游客进入。外表看不出来和普通的岛有什么分别,但她那独一无二的水下美景却传遍了世界。在权威的潜水杂志评语中,Sipadan不只是被公认为世界“海滨潜水”的最佳场所,也同时被列为世界五大峭壁潜水之首。原因是除了惊人的峭壁,这里还生长了数不清的海洋生物。在我们的理解,多数的岛都是从浅滩向海里逐渐延伸慢慢变深的,但是Sipadan四周只有小小一圈翡翠绿色的海水(浅海),紧接着外面是无际的幽蓝,水深也由三五米一下垂直陡降到600米,一点“缓冲”都没有,直直下到最深。沿着浅滩向外走,起初还能感觉“脚踏实地”,一不小心多走一步,就会不小心掉进那深不见底的600米深渊。


Mabul岛:
这三个岛当中最大的岛。岛上有4间主要的度假村,其余的还有不少背包客旅馆和潜水店。岛上除了游客之外,还有一大部分是这里的原住民。这里的原住民都来自于菲律宾南部,没有国籍,以捕鱼为生,分别住在岛上的两个村:Kampung Mabul 和 Kampung Musu。总人口大概2000人左右,超过一半都是14岁一下的儿童,可见大人们晚上都很空闲。


Kapalai岛:
百多年前Kapalai曾经是一个跟Sipadan Mabul一样美丽的岛,但由于海蚀把她变成一片荒凉的沙地。虽然岸上是光溜溜的沙地一片,但海底还隐藏着美丽的潜水天堂。这里只有一间Resort,叫Kapalai Resort,都是建在这片沙地上。住在这里什么都没有,就只有潜水。



Sipadan Water Village,住这里,从阳台望下海,就可以看到珊瑚和海底生物了,幸运的话还可以看到海龟。



Sipadan 岛,浅蓝是2、3米深,深蓝是600米深~~~



Mabul岛上的原住民,儿童占多数。



SMART Water Bungalows 有一个很长、很漂亮的桥。






要去Sipadan潜水,五天四夜包潜水,住宿有几个选择:Sipadan Water Village (比较豪华奢侈 RM2600 一人),SMART Water Banglow (一晚罢了都要1500-2000, 超贵所以OUT!),Kapalai Resort(跟SWV一样价钱,但是岛上什么都没有,很显),Seaventures(2000多,没有沙滩,就住在海上的ex炼油台)。比较节省的就是Home Stay(1800 到2200 之间)。 

我们本来是要住SWV(Sipadan Water Village)的,但是一直都fully booked,所以只好去找一间Home Stay,Mabul岛上有很多间,网上找到一间评价不错的,就是我们住的Billabong啦。

会选择住在mabul岛,是因为住那边除了潜水之外,还可以进入当地原住民的村子参观,拍拍照,而且还可以跑去其他Resort参观,不会那么闷~~






我们住的Homestay + Dive hut, 在水上的高脚屋,原住民村子里面。



夕阳西下时,可以看到完全没有娱乐设施的原住民怎样在海上消遣。



这里唯一的交通工具,就是他们自制的小木船。



很多房子都建在水上。村子里的海里虽然很多垃圾,但海水还是出奇的清澈~!




很单纯、与世无争的孩子们。



1970年,这里原住民的村长带领其他村民,一起在mabul岛上种植椰树为生,让当地人除了渔业之外,还有其他的收入。所以岛上到处都是椰树。



没有潜水时,在Mabul岛上走走拍照。



我后面就是他们其中一个村子,到处都可以看到小孩玩耍。



这里除了是潜水天堂,也是拍照的乐园~~



















他们都好爱拍照。



我们小时候也有在沙地玩的 “ Bakuli ”







猪妹把我拍到好像经典老歌的封面照 =="



后面的水上度假村,就是很豪华的 SWV







晒海草,听说营养价值高,可以卖到好价钱。







不懂他们在烧什么,好像是吃的,又好像不是。



这里孩子太多,大人很少。所以小孩年级轻轻,就要负责带更小的。



后面就是海上的Diving Home Stay:Seaventures



猪妹的摄影,她很喜欢拍自己的鞋的咯。



闯入SWV参观。



这里有车都没有马路给你驾,自己造船就可以了。



杂货店



废物利用,下棋用瓶盖加木板就可以了。



这个标本,是每一个 Diver 最怕遇到的 “ Trigger Fish ”。 看到它最好跑远远,比鲨鱼还恐怖。没有惹它,它都回来攻击你。











潜水去,这就是我们在这里5天4夜用的器材。



一桶gas在20米深左右可以耐50分钟。猪妹很厉害,在水里一个小时半应该都没有问题。



猪妹是让我开始爱上潜水的恩人,也是她带我去考执照的。



出发潜水咯~~!!



在Billabong住,可以认识很多不同国籍的潜水爱好者。这是其中两对潜水拍档。分别来自英国和法国殖民地Reunion。



蓝天+碧蓝的海,爽~!







终于都踏上了这个世界知名的潜水天堂:Sipadan~!  当然,食物留着自己吃就好,不要乱乱喂鱼,不然这里的鱼就会变到像Redang Marine Park的鱼酱商业化了。



每一天一到 Sipadan,就必须在 Registration Counter 登记,permit 一天只发给120人,没有 permit 一律严禁。Counter 还贴有 Sipadan 海域的 Dive Site。







猪妹到此一潜



龟头也到此一潜



为什么要改成去公园?这里本来就是岛来的啊,奇怪???



这里也有牌子记载历史。原来Sipadan的名字是死人名来,这个叫Paran的人死在岛上,所以叫 “死Padan ”。 这个岛也曾经被马来西亚和印尼抢到你死我活。最后还好给马来西亚抢过来了~~



潜水游客陆续的乘船到来。



为了保护岛的自然生态,所有Resort都被驱走了。岛上只有一个军营,还有一个大亭子供给潜水员休息吃饭。



自从 2000 年的绑架事件之后,这里都有很多军队守卫住岛的安全。他们也不让我们离开视线范围太远。我和猪妹沿海离开军营太远,他们响 Alarm 警告我们回来。



泡着法国妹,竟然被猪妹用相机抓包。



猪妹潜水的代价,穿蛙鞋穿到脱皮。



一天之内,潜水与潜水之间必须在岸上休息特定的时间。我们吃午餐后,在这个神奇之岛到处拍照。







这里潜水的第一天天气不作美,灰灰的,拍照不怎么理想。第二天比较好,有太阳,蓝天白云。



跳跃。。。!



太肥了,跳不起来。



没有跳到不甘愿,试了很多次终于成功了。







这个不受污染的岛,整片沙滩上可以看到很多寄居蟹。







龟头出海记



第二天回到Sipadan岛,哇塞!天气超好的,潜了水后上岸,一直忍不住按下快门。











海水是透明的



猪妹水上特辑



因为政府限制游客人数,所以这里才不拥挤,也不会那么快受污染。马来西亚政府做什么都错,只有这个最对。





































谢谢法国的帅哥 Benoit 帮我们抓机











猪妹 Up 到最美就是这张啦!(因为看不到脸)



































一整天都在海底潜水,上了岸,还是喜欢浸在海水里面,我们俩真的超级爱海洋的~!



两小无猜在水里拍拖



回到Mabul岛,去其他Resort走走看看。



前往 SWV 的桥



Mabul有一部分的沙滩已经被污染了,因为这里除了村子,还有很多Resort。所以比较贵的Resort都建在离岛比较远的水上,才可以看到不受污染的海洋。







SWV,要住这里要早点book,不然像我们这样,要住都没得住。



SWV的卖点是,从resort看下来,就可以看到很多海洋生物。我们望下望下就看到很多Lion Fish,Sting Ray,还有很多Pipe Fish。



想像一下,早上睡醒一从阳台出来,就可以看到一大片珊瑚~~!!















整个SWV都是给珊瑚围绕着~!下次来一定要Book到这间~!!



珊瑚不是假的,不是死的,是活的,太美了吧~~!!??



看到有一班人在浅海里考潜水。哎哟,比游泳池还清洁呢这里的海水。。。







SWV,住宿贵,但是物有所值。



接下来去参观的是整个Semporna最贵的Resort:SMART Water Bungalow。这里一晚是从1000起跳的。



一晚RM1000++ 的景色。







从这里望回去Mabul岛,真的,好多椰树。



直升机降落台原来有水蛇的啊?!我们在那边拍了很久照片后才发现到这个告示牌



自拍婚纱照,没有婚纱的婚纱照。



我们的摄影师 Mr. Tripod,从 Melbourne 跟拍到这里。







很感谢脚架先生帮我们拍得那么漂亮。







拍Couple Shoot好辛苦,尤其是在太阳底下,而且又要自拍。



这就是会有很多水蛇出没的Helipad。



SMART Water Bunglow太贵,没什么人住,所以可以任由我们摆post,不会挡住游客。







我最满意的自拍婚纱照~~!



END



身为马来西亚人,不要生在福中不知福,赶快去考张潜水执照吧~!

世界最美的潜水地点,都在我们附近:马来西亚、印尼、菲律宾。

我们在Billabong Home Stay 认识的外国人,从世界各地:美国,荷兰,法国,英国,丹麦,留泥汪岛,中国,日本;特地慕名飞过来这里潜水。我们那么靠近,不潜不是浪费??


大家一起去潜水吧!!







海底照会在下一篇放出来。



194 条评论:

William Cheng 莊家駒 说...

是马来西亚人的话, 又喜欢旅行的话, 也喜欢拍照的话, 没去过这地方包你死不瞑目.

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

双脚双手赞成~~!!

Angelwee 说...

真的是很棒的海域。

Kapalai 也很棒。。。

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

是的~~~ 一定会再回去~~~

AliVe 说...

水很清澈,景色很美,照片很赞!

MSKY 说...

真是美到 ~ 去sipadan的最佳月份是何時呢?

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

Alive: 谢谢~~~~

MSKY: 长年都ok的,不过尽量避开四月和八月,那边Peak Season。

匿名 说...

很喜欢你拍下那一群天真无邪的小孩们,感觉上他们与世隔绝,与城中小孩形成很大对比,他们眼中流露很多渴望,同时值得感恩的是他们比同龄小孩来的更直接,单纯..

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

我也是很喜欢。。。

哎哟啊~~~为什么匿名呢?

sueki 说...

啊~排谢~不久前我男友要我看你sipadan的照片,结果我就add了你~我很喜欢海,海滩和岛,其实都一样,也喜欢“玩”摄影,看了你的照片很有想度假的感觉~~

sueki 说...

啊~排谢~不久前我男友要我看你sipadan的照片,结果我就add了你~我很喜欢海,海滩和岛,其实都一样,也喜欢“玩”摄影,看了你的照片很有想度假的感觉~~

西米 说...

美到无话可说,看到我冲动的要去考潜水执照 :)

bpchia 说...

好美... 我也想学潜水了...

Shu Yi 说...

我想问下你,sipadan等那三个岛,如果不潜水,能进得去吗?就只是单纯去玩玩什么的。还有就是你们的那个billabong住处也一样。一晚多少钱呢?有个外国网友家庭打算到沙巴去玩,我推荐了这地方。帮他询问些事情。

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

sueki:谢谢你支持。。。我很喜欢分享我的游记和摄影,以后多来看看。

西米:不要压抑了,赶快去考吧~~

bpchia:去去去~~~!

Shu Yi :如果没有潜水,很便宜的,不过就比较可惜,因为sipadan最特别的地方就是它的海底世界。

SHL 说...

Hi..好喜欢你的摄影.拍得很好哦!
想请问如果只是到sipdan浮潜而没有深潜可以吗?

龟头@Kenny Sim@恺俊 说...

SHL: 谢谢~~ 还是可以浮潜的,不过permit比较难拿到,都是潜水员有先的,不过我还是又看到游客去浮潜,sipadan比较少,mabul跟kapalai比较多,你可以去试试看。

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